Whether you're just getting into luxury watches or looking to deepen your collecting knowledge, understanding Rolex reference numbers is a game-changer. These seemingly random combinations of digits and letters are actually a coded language — one that reveals important details about a watch's case material, bezel style, movement, and more. Learning how to decode Rolex reference numbers not only helps you make more informed buying and selling decisions but also sharpens your ability to authenticate watches, track market trends, and appreciate the subtle differences between models.
In this guide, we'll break down everything you need to know about Rolex reference numbers, including model, metal, bezel, dial, and bracelet codes, so you can navigate the world of Rolex with confidence and precision.
Table of Contents
Rolex Reference Number Structure
Before diving into how to properly decipher a Rolex reference number, it's important to note that this guide focuses exclusively on modern Rolex models currently in production. The reference number system has evolved over time, and the rules outlined here don't necessarily apply to discontinued, neo-vintage, or vintage Rolex watches.
Modern Rolex watches are identified by six-digit reference numbers (XXXXXX). The brand divides its catalog into two main categories — Classic and Professional — and the structure of reference numbers behaves slightly differently across these two lines.
Classic Rolex Reference Numbers: Model and Bezel
Classic Rolex watches include the Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, Lady-Datejust, Day-Date, Sky-Dweller, and Land-Dweller collections. In modern references, the first four digits tell you which collection the watch belongs to:
- Land-Dweller 40: 1273xx
- Land-Dweller 36: 1272xx
- Day-Date 40: 2282xx and 2283xx
- Day-Date 36: 1282xx and 1283xx
- Sky-Dweller: 3362xx
- Datejust 41: 1263xx
- Datejust 36: 1262xx
- Datejust 31: 2782xx and 2783xx
- Lady-Datejust: 2791xx
- Oyster Perpetual 41: 1343xx
- Oyster Perpetual 36: 1260xx
- Oyster Perpetual 34: 1242xx
- Oyster Perpetual 31: 2772xx
- Oyster Perpetual 28: 2762xx
For Classic models 34mm and larger, the fifth digit in the reference number indicates the bezel style:
- 0: Domed Bezel
- 3: Fluted Bezel
- 4, 8, 9: Gem-Set Bezel
For Classic models smaller than 34mm, the fifth digit still indicates the bezel, but the coding differs:
- 0, 4, 6: Domed Bezel
- 7: Fluted Bezel
- 3, 8: Gem-Set Bezel
The Rolex DateJust with classic fluted bezel
Professional Rolex Reference Numbers: Model and Bezel
Professional Rolex models include the Cosmograph Daytona, Submariner, Sea-Dweller, Deepsea, GMT-Master II, Yacht-Master, Explorer, and Air-King. In these watches, the first five digits identify the model family:
- Cosmograph Daytona: 12650x
- Submariner (No Date): 12406x
- Submariner Date: 12661x
- Sea-Dweller: 12660x
- Deepsea Challenge: 11260x
- Deepsea: 13666x
- GMT-Master II: 12671x and 12672x (left-handed crown)
- Yacht-Master 42: 22665x and 22662x
- Yacht-Master 40: 12665x and 12662x
- Yacht-Master 37: 26865x and 26862x
- Explorer 40: 22427x
- Explorer 36: 12427x
- Explorer II: 22657x
- Air-King: 12690x
Professional models do not use bezel-style digit codes like the Classic models. Instead, many feature letter suffixes that denote the color or gem setting of the bezel, often using French abbreviations. Here's a breakdown:
- LN (Lunette Noir): Black Bezel
- LB (Lunette Bleu): Blue Bezel
- LV (Lunette Verte): Green Bezel
- BLNR (Bleu/Noir): Blue and Black Bezel
- BLRO (Bleu/Rouge): Blue and Red Bezel
- GRNR (Gris/Noir): Gray and Black Bezel
- VTNR (Vert/Noir): Green and Black Bezel
- CHNR (Chocolat/Noir): Brown and Black Bezel
- RBR (Rond Brillants): Round-Cut Diamonds
- TBR (Tessellation Brillants): Baguette-Cut Diamonds
- TEM (Tessellation Émeraude): Baguette-Cut Emeralds
- SABLV (Saphirs Bleu Vert): Blue and Green Sapphires
- SABR (Saphirs Brillants): Sapphires and Diamonds
- SACO (Saphirs Cognac): Cognac-Colored Sapphires
- SAFUBL (Saphirs Fuchsia Bleu): Fuchsia and Blue Sapphires
- SAJOR (Saphirs Jaune Orange): Yellow and Orange Sapphires
- SANR (Saphirs Noir): Black Sapphires
- SARU (Saphirs Rubis): Sapphires and Rubies
- RBOW (Rainbow): Multi-Colored Sapphires and Diamonds
The GMT-Master II 126710BLRO features the iconic blue and red "Pepsi" bezel
Rolex Reference Number Case Metal Codes
The sixth and final digit in any modern Rolex reference number — across both Classic and Professional collections — indicates the case material of the watch:
- 0: Oystersteel (stainless steel)
- 1: Everose Rolesor (stainless steel case and rose gold bezel)
- 2: Rolesium (stainless steel case and platinum bezel)
- 3: Yellow Rolesor (stainless steel case and yellow gold bezel)
- 4: White Rolesor (stainless steel case and white gold bezel)
- 5: Everose Gold (rose gold)
- 6: Platinum
- 7: Titanium
- 8: Yellow Gold
- 9: White Gold
If the original documentation is missing, you can still find the reference number engraved on the case. It is located between the lugs at the 12 o'clock position and is only visible once the bracelet is removed.
Image Source
The reference number is engraved between the lugs at the 12 o'clock position
Rolex Reference Dial and Bracelet Codes
While the first six digits of a modern Rolex reference number are the most critical, the full reference includes four additional digits following a dash, resulting in a complete format of XXXXXX-XXXX.
These final four digits represent variations within the same base model, typically differences in dial style or bracelet type. Unfortunately, unlike the case and bezel codes, there's no key for decoding these numbers. Rolex assigns them internally and somewhat sequentially; newer variations tend to have higher suffix numbers than earlier ones, but there's no strict logic a buyer can follow.
For example:
The Day-Date 40 ref. 228238-0042 features a white dial, whereas ref. 228238-0003 has a champagne dial — despite both sharing the same case, bezel, and bracelet.
Similarly, the Datejust 41 ref. 126334-0018 has a Bright Black dial with luminous baton hour markers, while ref. 126334-0012 has the same dial but with diamond hour markers instead.
Bracelet style is another differentiator:
The GMT-Master II ref. 126710BLNR-0002 comes on a Jubilee bracelet, while ref. 126710BLNR-0003 is fitted with an Oyster bracelet — again, both watches otherwise share the same case, bezel, and dial color.
The same GMT-Master II model can come on either Jubilee or Oyster bracelets
And in case you were wondering, the letter "m" that precedes every official Rolex reference (e.g., m126710BLNR-0003) simply stands for "montre", the French word for watch.
Why Rolex Reference Numbers Matter
Learning how to read Rolex reference numbers can help you recognize patterns, understand model evolution, and spot details that often go unnoticed. From case metals and bezel types to dial and bracelet variations, each digit and letter tells a story.
Whether you're evaluating a potential purchase or studying the market more broadly, this knowledge brings clarity to one of the most influential catalogs in modern watchmaking.
Understanding reference numbers unlocks the full depth of Rolex's catalog