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Audemars Piguet & Patek Philippe: Two Approaches to Collaboration
In the world of high-end Swiss watchmaking, collaborations aren’t new. But how each brand approaches them varies wildly. On one end of the spectrum, you’ve got Audemars Piguet: adventurous, cross-disciplinary, and always ready to tap into unexpected creative circles. On the other hand, there’s Patek Philippe: reserved, insular, and more interested in building on its own legacy than linking arms with outside partners. Both strategies are valid, but they tell two very different stories about how a brand sees itself — and what it values most.
Audemars Piguet Collaborations: Open-Armed And Experimental
Over the last few decades, Audemars Piguet has fully embraced the idea that watchmaking doesn’t have to stay in its lane. The brand has built an entire identity around defying tradition, from Gerald Genta’s original Royal Oak in 1972 to the newer Code 11.59 collection. In fact, one of its longest-running tag lines was “To Break the Rules, You Must First Master Them.” Unsurprisingly, that rebellious streak spills over into its collaborative strategy.
Audemars Piguet has made it a point to team up with musicians, fashion designers, athletes, and artists for a range of limited edition releases, brand ambassadorships, and in some cases, long-term creative partnerships. Take LeBron James and Leo Messi, both of whom worked with the brand on limited edition chronographs. Or Marvel, whose collaboration led to the Black Panther and Spider-Man Royal Oak Concept pieces. Travis Scott’s Cactus Jack label is also in the mix, with a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar clad in brown ceramic and finished with custom typography. AP has also joined forces with contemporary artist KAWS on an artistic reinterpretation of the Royal Oak Concept, complete with a mini “Companion” on the dial. Then there’s Carolina Bucci, the Italian jeweler behind the Frosted Gold finish that’s become a defining design detail for some of AP’s most distinctive models. Even fashion designer Tamara Ralph has left her mark, bringing a couture-inspired sensibility to the Royal Oak Concept line.
Some of Audemars Piguet’s collaborators tend to have real influence on the watches they help create. John Mayer is a prime example as the musician and long-time Audemars Piguet fan is now officially working with the watchmaker under the title of Creative Conduit. His recent Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” edition, with its striking “Crystal Sky” dial, subtle modifications to the date and week indicators, and white gold construction, illustrates a product involvement that isn’t required of most celebrity collaborators. This was a watch shaped by a genuine collector’s eye rather than just tagging on a famous name.
What makes Audemars Piguet’s approach to collaborations effective is that it treats them as an extension of its identity. There’s a clear willingness to step outside the walls of Le Brassus and listen to voices from other fields — be it fashion, music, sport, or art — and translate what’s happening in the culture into high-end watchmaking.
Patek Philippe Collaborations: Rare and Reserved
Now, let’s look at Patek Philippe. The Geneva-based brand has taken almost the opposite approach. Collaboration, at least in the modern sense, just isn’t part of Patek’s playbook. The renowned — and very reserved — watchmaker doesn’t launch capsule collections with athletes or artists. It doesn’t outsource designs to household names or offer limited drops through partnerships. Instead, Patek sticks to a tightly controlled, in-house process that values tradition, heritage, and internal innovation.
The one notable exception is Tiffany & Co., and even that relationship wasn’t born from a marketing brainstorm. It goes back to 1851, when Antoine Norbert de Patek shook hands with Charles Lewis Tiffany to establish a retail agreement between both companies. For decades, Tiffany-signed Patek dials were quietly sold through the jeweler’s boutiques, a practice that continues today. That historical link eventually culminated in the 2021 release of the Nautilus 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany Blue,” a limited edition run of 170 pieces that marked the 170th anniversary of their partnership, causing a frenzy in the market and fetching jaw-dropping prices at auction.
But even then, the collaboration was more of a historical nod than a creative exercise. The watch wasn’t newly designed, it was the outgoing Nautilus 5711 with a dial color change and a co-signed logo. No outside design studio, fashion house, or famous face. Just two legacy companies tying a bow on an over century-long partnership.
Patek Philippe’s resistance to contemporary collaboration is clearly a deliberate choice. It’s focused on long-term value, generational appeal, and maintaining a singular vision. It sees itself less as a lifestyle watch brand and more as a guardian of watchmaking history. That means fewer risks and trend-driven distractions.
Collaboration Contrasts
The contrast between these two watchmakers reflects a broader philosophical divide in luxury. Audemars Piguet sees collaboration as an opportunity to evolve. Its watches don’t need to remain fixed in time, they can adapt to new cultural landscapes and embrace various influences without compromising quality. That openness has helped AP stay relevant with a younger, more diverse audience.
Conversely, Patek Philippe remains rooted in the belief that prestige comes from continuity. The company has long played up its image as a family-run business. The Stern family has owned Patek since 1932, and that sentiment is echoed in its now-iconic Generations ad campaign, which introduced the most famous line in the business: You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation. It’s a message about legacy, not trend cycles. In that context, collaborations can feel too fleeting and too dependent on the staying power of the other party. By keeping things internal, Patek ensures that every watch released is consistent with its core identity. There’s an appeal in that restraint; it’s what makes Patek the go-to brand for serious collectors and traditionalists. But it also means the brand is inclined to take fewer creative detours.
Looking Ahead
As of now, there’s no indication that Patek Philippe is about to jump into artist collaborations or launch a limited drop with a star. And honestly, that’s probably for the best. The brand knows its audience and knows what it does well.
Meanwhile, Audemars Piguet shows no signs of slowing down its interdisciplinary partnerships, even with its new leadership. If anything, its collaborations may become even more immersive.
Two different strategies. Two very different outcomes. And in the end, that’s what keeps the watch world interesting.