Vacheron's New 34.5mm Overseas: Burgundy Steel and Monochrome Gold
Last updated July 7, 2026
Vacheron Constantin just added two watches to the Overseas Self-Winding line, and both are 34.5mm, the smaller case size the brand introduced in 2023, not the 41mm most people picture when they hear "Overseas." One is a steel model with a deep burgundy dial (Ref. 4600V/200A-H127) at $26,600. The other is 5N pink gold with a monochrome gold dial (Ref. 4600V/200R-H128) at $59,500. Both are boutique pieces you'll have to order and wait for.
Here's the part that matters if you actually want one now: the burgundy is the same 34.5mm steel Overseas we already have in the case, just with a different dial. We stock the blue-dial version of that exact reference. So this is a rare chance to put the old one and the new one side by side and see precisely what changed.
The old one vs. the new one
Same 34.5mm steel case. Same 9.3mm profile. Same in-house Calibre 1088/1, the same date at 3 o'clock, the same 22k gold rotor with the compass-rose engraving spinning behind the sapphire caseback. The burgundy is a new dial on a watch we already sell, and that's the whole story. Here they are next to each other.
Left: the blue-dial 4600V we have in stock. Right: the new burgundy 4600V/200A-H127. Same case, same movement, same size. The dial is the whole story. New-release image: Vacheron Constantin.
The dials are where the two separate. The blue is a straightforward sunburst under a velvet-finished minutes track with 18k gold markers. The burgundy goes a little more technical: a steel ring rings the sunburst center and cuts it off from the outer minutes track, and the applied markers are 18k white gold instead of yellow. It reads sportier and a touch more serious in person. Same watch underneath, different mood on top.
On price, note the gap runs the way you might not expect. Vacheron's US retail on the steel Overseas is $26,600. Ours is $30,000, and it's here today. The Overseas in steel has been one of the harder Vacherons to walk into a boutique and buy, and that's the whole reason the number sits where it does. The burgundy lists for less on paper, but "lists for less" and "on your wrist this month" are two different things.
The gold version
The second new reference is the dressier one: a full 5N pink gold case with a monochrome gold dial, 18k pink gold markers and hands, and blue-emission Super-LumiNova for the lume. It ships with a pink gold bracelet, a white alligator strap, and a white textured rubber strap, all swappable with Vacheron's tool-free system. US retail is $59,500.
The 34.5mm Overseas in 5N pink gold, Ref. 4600V/200R-H128, $59,500 retail. Image: Vacheron Constantin.
A monochrome gold sports watch on an integrated gold bracelet is a specific taste, and this one commits to it. It's the piece in this pair we're most curious to handle, because gold-on-gold either works completely or it doesn't, and the Overseas case has the finishing to pull it off.
Specs, side by side
| Blue (in stock) | Burgundy (new) | Pink gold (new) | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reference | 4600V/200A-B980 | 4600V/200A-H127 | 4600V/200R-H128 |
| Case | 34.5mm steel | 34.5mm steel | 34.5mm 5N pink gold |
| Dial | Blue sunburst | Burgundy sunburst + steel ring | Monochrome gold |
| Markers | 18k gold | 18k white gold | 18k pink gold |
| Thickness | 9.3mm | 9.3mm | 9.3mm |
| Water resistance | 150m | 150m | 150m |
| Movement | Cal. 1088/1 auto | Cal. 1088/1 auto | Cal. 1088/1 auto |
| Power reserve | 40 hours | 40 hours | 40 hours |
| Straps included | Steel bracelet + 2 | Steel bracelet, red alligator, red rubber | Gold bracelet, white alligator, white rubber |
| Price | $30,000 (ours) | $26,600 retail | $59,500 retail |
Retail prices from Vacheron Constantin's US site (July 2026). European retail is €26,800 and €60,000 respectively; the euro figures include VAT, so they don't convert one-to-one to the US numbers. All three share the 144-part Calibre 1088/1 running at 4 Hz with a 22k gold compass-rose rotor.
Our read
Vacheron is doing well for us right now. We're moving three to four a week, and the Overseas is the model doing the most of that work. A 34.5mm version widens who the watch fits. At 41mm the Overseas is a real sports watch on a smaller wrist; at 34.5mm it sits flat and disappears under a cuff, and it works just as well on a man who wants something dressier as it does as a women's piece. Vacheron built it for both, and that's the right call.
Small watches are the story this year. Vacheron is not alone here: H. Moser showed the Streamliner Mini this year in 34mm and 28mm, and Audemars Piguet took the Royal Oak down to 23mm. Shrinking the hero model is where a lot of the industry is spending its 2026, and the Overseas is a natural fit for it because the case was always about proportion and finishing rather than sheer size.
If you want one, the honest advice is the same as it is on most in-demand Vacherons: the retail number is real, but so is the wait behind it. The blue-dial 34.5mm we have in stock is the same watch as the new burgundy in every way that runs the watch. If the burgundy dial is the one you want, wait for it. If you want a 34.5mm Overseas on your wrist now, we can help with that today.
Overseas we have in stock
The full range we're holding, from the 34.5mm steel through the titanium Dual Times and the skeletons:
Related reading
- Vacheron Constantin Watches: Models, Collections & Prices (the full model guide).
- Why Vacheron Constantin Is Rising in 2026 (what our sell-through is telling us).
- Why Vacheron Is Gaining on Patek (the steel-sport gap the Overseas fills).
Frequently asked questions
How big is the new Vacheron Overseas?
Both new 2026 models are 34.5mm in diameter and 9.3mm thick, the compact case size Vacheron introduced to the Overseas line in 2023, down from the standard 41mm Overseas Self-Winding. It's water resistant to 150 meters.
How much does the new Overseas Self-Winding 34.5mm cost?
US retail is $26,600 for the steel model with the burgundy dial (Ref. 4600V/200A-H127) and $59,500 for the 5N pink gold model with the monochrome gold dial (Ref. 4600V/200R-H128). In Europe the prices are €26,800 and €60,000.
What's the difference between the blue and burgundy 34.5mm Overseas?
Mechanically, nothing. Both are 34.5mm steel cases running the in-house Calibre 1088/1, with the date at 3 o'clock and the same 22k gold compass-rose rotor. The differences are the dial color, a steel ring that separates the sunburst center from the minutes track on the burgundy, and white gold markers on the burgundy versus yellow gold on the blue.
Is the new 34.5mm Overseas available yet?
Both new references are available to order through Vacheron Constantin boutiques, but they're brand new, so expect a wait. We have the blue-dial version of the same 34.5mm steel Overseas in stock now, and we can source the burgundy and gold on request.
What movement is in the Overseas Self-Winding 34.5mm?
The in-house automatic Calibre 1088/1. It has 144 parts, runs at 4 Hz, holds a 40-hour power reserve, and carries an anti-magnetic soft-iron ring. You can see its 22k gold rotor, engraved with a compass rose, through the sapphire caseback.
Does Vacheron make the Overseas in gold?
Yes. One of the two new 34.5mm references is a full 5N pink gold case with a monochrome gold dial and a matching gold bracelet (Ref. 4600V/200R-H128), at $59,500 US retail.
Sources: Vacheron Constantin (specifications, US retail pricing, and product images). Market context on smaller case sizes per Robb Report and Monochrome, July 2026. New-release product photography © Vacheron Constantin, used for editorial coverage.