In 2014, Patek Philippe introduced a new iteration of its popular Gerald Genta-designed integrated bracelet watch — the Nautilus 5990, which brought together a flyback chronograph, dual time functionality, day/night indicators, and a date window in one appealing, sporty package. Since then, Patek has evolved the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph lineup by replacing the original with a new dial and adding a different metal to the mix. Over a decade later, we’re taking a look at the history, evolution, and collectibility of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990.
Design and Functionality
Like all Nautilus models that came before it, the Patek ref. 5990 retained its signature porthole-shaped case topped with a rounded octagonal bezel. Despite its quartet of complications, the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph is still relatively compact, measuring 40.5mm across 4 o’clock to 10 o’clock and 12.5mm thick.
There are some clever design touches here that help maintain those proportions, one of which is the transformation of the hinge-like detail on the left of the case into functioning pushers to adjust the local time zone forward or back in one-hour increments. On the other side are the chronograph pushers flanking the crown and crown guards, positioned at 2 and 4 o’clock. These thoughtful placements mean that the additional functionality of the ref. 5990 isn’t competing with the design blueprint of the Nautilus — one that always prioritizes sleekness — instead, they’re smartly integrated into one of the luxury market’s most recognizable watch silhouettes.
That attentiveness carries through to the dial, where Patek prioritized legibility even with the added functions. Accompanying the familiar baton-shaped luminous (local) hour and minute hand at the center of the dial is an additional, skeletonized, hour hand that serves to indicate another time zone, which Patek theorizes would be home time while traveling. When the second time zone isn’t needed, it can be tucked away under the local hour hand. There are two windows on the dial, aptly labeled “LOCAL” and “HOME” to display whether it’s day (white) or night (blue) in each of their respective zones.
While the above indicators make up the Travel Time portion of the Ref. 5990, there’s also the flyback chronograph to consider. For this, there’s the central chronograph hand and the 60-minute chronograph counter at 6 o’clock. As a flyback chronograph, the central hand can be reset and restarted instantly with a single press of the pusher at 4 o’clock — no need to stop it first. Plus, the chronograph hand can also act as a traditional seconds hand since continuously running it has no impact on movement performance.
At 12 o’clock is a pointer-style date subdial, synchronized with local time. The overall dial layout keeps the display easy to read, enhanced by the Nautilus collection’s signature horizontal embossed grooves — a design element dating back to the model’s 1976 debut.
Similar to the vast majority of watches in this sporty Patek collection, the Travel Time Chronograph 5990 is paired with the famed Nautilus integrated bracelet, featuring rounded, rectangular, and polished center links embedded into brushed H-links.
Patek developed the Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS specifically for the 5990’s launch. The self-winding movement, which now also powers the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph 5924, operates at 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a 45–55 hour power reserve. The beautifully finished movement is visible through the sapphire caseback.
Model Variations
The first version of the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph that came out in 2014 was the ref. 5990/1A-001, featuring a stainless steel case, matching steel integrated bracelet, and a gray-to-black gradient dial that darkened towards the perimeter. For the next seven years, this was the only Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph option available.
In 2021, a more luxurious version joined the collection in the form of the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1R-001, sporting an 18k rose gold case and bracelet, and fitted with a striking sunburst blue dial with matching rose gold hands and hour markers.
The 5990/1R-001 in 18k rose gold, introduced in 2021.
In early 2022, Patek quietly discontinued the Ref. 5990/1A-001, only to replace it with the Ref. 5990/1A-011 a few months later. While the proportions, movement, and stainless steel construction were left unchanged from its predecessor, the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1A-011 is paired with the classic blue-to-black gradient dial instead.
As of 2025, both the stainless steel 5990/1A-011 and the rose gold 5990/1R-001 remain in Patek Philippe’s current catalog.
Price, Value, Rarity, and Collectibility
Even within the famously hard-to-get Nautilus family, the Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990 has remained one of the more elusive references. For most of its production run, allocation has been tight, with limited numbers reaching authorized retailers. And unlike simpler models such as the time-only 5711 or even the chronograph-only 5980, the 5990’s mechanical complexity likely contributes to lower overall output.
The 5990/1A-001 originally retailed just above $57,000, and its successor, the 5990/1A-011, currently retails for $69,640. As expected, the official price tag of the rose gold 5990/1R-001 is almost double, retailing for $126,320. However, given that demand for the Nautilus 5990 exceeds supply, prices on the secondary market are much higher.
Though secondary market prices for pre-owned watches have corrected since their peak in late 2021 to 2022, pre-owned Nautilus 5990 watches still command hefty premiums in today’s market. For instance, prices for gray-black dial examples range from $100,000 to $145,000, while blue-dial versions tend to land between $130,000 and $175,000. Pre-owned market prices for the rose gold Nautilus 5990 start at $235,000 and can reach over $250,000.
On top of the regular-production variants, there are also a handful of ultra-rare 5990 examples with Tiffany & Co. co-signed dials. These are not part of a special limited run like the Tiffany Blue 5711, but rather standard production 5990 models sold through Tiffany boutiques, distinguished by the discreet “Tiffany & Co.” text printed at 6 o’clock. These pieces are exceptionally scarce and sell at prices far exceeding their unsigned counterparts. Tiffany-stamped 5990s in stainless steel have been known to sell above $200,000 at auction, with rose gold versions fetching over $300,000. For collectors focused on double-signed Pateks, these Tiffany 5990s sit at the top of the modern-market hierarchy.
While market values fluctuate, the ref. 5990 continues to be seen as a “collector’s Nautilus.” The combination of travel functionality, a flyback chronograph, and a slim, wearable case gives it real-world utility, not just curb appeal. It’s also one of only three current-production Nautilus references still offered in stainless steel, further bolstering its desirability.
With its strong design, functional versatility, and low production, the Travel Time Chronograph 5990 has quietly become one of the most respected modern Patek references. It’s a model that continues to attract serious collector interest — and there’s no sign of that slowing anytime soon.